Laura Patterson Schmerker

Nesting

2011-10-02T09:24:00.000-07:00

Jeff and I are getting ready for our next adventure -- parenthood. With this being our first child there has been much to learn and figure out, but the common theme through the whole process has been nesting. I just did not realize there were different ways to do this.

My nesting started out pretty gradually. It really wasn't until I flew back to Atlanta to visit family and friends in June that the pregnancy began to seem real. They threw me a baby shower and later my sister took me around town and helped me figure out what I needed, then helped me find a way to pack it all into a bag for the airplane ride back to Missoula.

Cloth diapers

Painting by Linda Hanks

Schmerker family cup and rattle

Jeff's first spoon

I started to change the guest room into the baby's room. I sold a bookshelf so I could get a dresser/changing table. This took some convincing of Jeff because the book shelf was apparently very loved and Jeff was sure we could change the baby on the kitchen counter--a whole new place to do this was not necessary. Fortunately I convinced him otherwise and found a cool dresser which I bought from a college student. The only problem was that it had layers of paint which had to be removed, but after much more work than I expected it turned out to be the perfect fit.

Before

After

Pictures I took on our trip from our trip and have in the baby's room

Bali, Indonesia

Isla de la Plata, Ecuador

Pinnewala, Sri Lanka

Borneo, Malaysia

Also complicating matters was advice gleaned from a birthing class, where the instructed said a baby could sleep pretty much anywhere -- even a drawer. This was not a good thing to tell my husband! After several conversations Jeff finally gave up on the drawer idea and let me take over on the getting things ready for the baby. He had his own plans anyway.

It all started out innocent enough. We needed more space in our small house, and with an imminent growing family Jeff built cabinets for our bedroom closet. Then the garage needed to be cleaned out, and while it was cleaned out, might as well paint the inside--and the floor. Getting in and out of the garage could use some help, so next on the list he decided to build a stone paver driveway, then add a pergola entrance into our side yard. Also, to keep the house warm, he got new front and back doors. With about 4 weeks of my pregnancy left, Jeff announced he was going to gut the kitchen and redo it. It hit me suddenly, Man-nesting! He wasn't trying to drive me crazy--it was just his way of getting ready for the kiddo. I supported his other projects (though couldn't really do anything but give my opinion, which he 'loves') but I drew the line with the kitchen. We both had our own ways of getting ready.

Jeff perfecting man-nesting

Now we have two weeks left till our due date. The tools are slowly being put away, and we got our first snow in the mountains. It will be time soon. I know now we are ready.

Love the beach ... but also the naan

2011-08-26T08:41:00.000-07:00

For the last two years we have taken a vacation at the end of summer -- before I start back to school and when the weather is more likely to cooperate. This trip was really special too because not only was it our last trip before the end of summer but it was also the last trip before our son is born. Due to a number of things our options for where to go were a little more limited but we decided on the Oregon Coast. Of course, any trip that includes a visit to the 'big city' gives an opportunity to reload on all the things were can't get in Missoula. We brought an extra cooler just for this case -- to load up on foods imported from around the world that you just can't get at the Orange Street Food Farm in Missoula.

Along with our maps of campsites, hiking trails, and national seashores, we also had a lot of maps detailing where our other important stops were going to be: Indian, Asian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, and Ethiopian markets, Trader Joe's, and local farmer's markets.

Life was a lot easier when you could fly and bring liquids back with you. The first time I went to Texas to meet Jeff's parents were made an all-important stop at Spec's, which is like a grocery store where all they sell is wine, beer, and liquor. We returned to Utah with an old bag from his mom holding six bottles of his favorite wines. If I flew to Atlanta, my carry-on bag upon return would be overflowing with Indian masalas. But, with the changing rules about liquids on flights and the fees for checked bags, our import of ethnic foods amounted to some bags of powdered seasonings and spices--and, of course, no wine. That's not really enough to appease our appetite.

The things is, when you go to these shops you get a glimpse into interesting and different lives. When we went to the Ethiopian shop, there were kids in the back of the store watching football and we met a guy while checking out who told us about a special Ethiopian river where those who wash there will be cured of illnesses.

We love the different foods. For lunch one day in Portland we had Vietnamese sandwiches, coffee, sticky rice, and BBQ banana -- all for the same price as a stop at Subway. As our eyes teared up (not from joy but from the extreme heat -- Jeff mistakenly said medium spicy which is still too hot for any American) we remembered our trips to Laos where we munched on the same baguette at a streetside cafe. It keeps us connected to that experience of traveling and what were some of the best times of our lives.

I'm always torn when I go to a big city and all of these things are readily available. I think -- I could live here but, soon reality sets in and traffic grinds on my nerves and the number of people around you all the time make me thankful for my cooler. I can load up and head back to my small town in the mountains. I can still enjoy toasted seaweed and naan and be in a place I love. Meanwhile, if the flight rules change someday, life could be a bit different. Who needs bags full of clothes when going to a big city! One outfit will do and will make more room for what is really important -- a carry-on bag full of good food.

Oregon Coast

Mt. Hood -- heading into Portland

Multnomah Falls

Plott Hound at the beach

Barview

Jeff cycling the coast

Seal Rock

Devil's Punchbowl State Natural Area

Heceta Head Lighthouse

Sea Lions at Shell Island

View from Shore Acres State Park

Cape Arago

Coquille River Lighthouse

Bandon Beach

Cape Blanco Lighthouse

Sunset at the beach -- Humbug Mountain State Park

The Beauty of Car Camping

2011-07-21T07:21:00.000-07:00

I love to camp. There is just something about being outside and sleeping in nature that I connect with.

When we traveled abroad we usually had a tent with us. Despite the extra weight it was always nice to know that we would always have somewhere to sleep. In Europe and the French Polynesian Islands, we camped to save money; in Australia and New Zealand, we camped during our cycling tours. We even camped when we moved to Montana, looking for jobs and getting re-established after being out of the country.

Christmas camping in Tasmania, Australia

Cycling the Great Ocean Road

Easter at Mt. Cook, New Zealand

South Island, New Zealand

Things have changed since moving to Montana. The camping has now been in the back of our truck. The wildlife is a little too wild here with the threat of grizzly bears, but it also allowed us to expand the camping season. We now camp and ski, too. The coldest night we have camped in is -10. We woke up to ice and frost covering our bags.

Grizzly crossing near Glacier

Just chased off the black bear

Black bear was no match for the grizzly

Where is mamma? Two grizzly cubs playing in Waterton National Park

Fox near Waterton National Park

Wolverine near Logan Pass, Glacier

I feel kinda wimpy now, being spoiled with not having to set up a tent in rain or trying to pack up and head out for an early morning. It makes things so much easier and comfortable -- except when you can only find a hill to park on. Then the plott hound slides down with you and tries to hog your bag. She is hard to move once she is laying on your bag.

Heading to our campsite, near Elkford BC

Sunset near Flathead Lake, MT

Not the best place to camp overnight -- Kokanee Glacier Provinical Park, BC

Getting ready for bed

Spring skiing basecamp at Jewel Basin, MT

Don't let the Plott Hound fool you -- she snores, kicks in her sleep and can really hog the covers.

So, perhaps car camping is not perfect. But it is free, and convenient, and means wherever the truck is, there we are, too.

Weekend Warriors

2011-05-18T16:05:00.000-07:00

Most weekends are spent doing what we love: working in the yard. Out of all the home improvement projects on our list, we've saved the outdoor and landscaping part for last, I think, because it is our favorite.

I come from a long line of gardeners. Working in the yard was the thing my dad and I always did together. I loved steering the lawn mower while sitting on his lap and was thrilled when I was finally old enough to cut the grass myself.

Jeff and I gave him a Black Kow t-shirt for Father's Day. The Mature Manure.

Growing up, my dad gave me countless books about landscaping, gardening and, most essentially, pruning. For my wedding gift he gave me a special gardening shovel engraved with our names and our wedding date (He's second passion was dating items).

When we bought our first house we were still learning so much. My parents came up for what they thought was going to be a relaxing weekend in the mountains and little did they know we had plans. We wanted to build a pergola.

We had this strange concrete slab in our backyard which at one point probably was for a storage shed. Since the shed was gone, we thought about how could we turn it into something usable rather than trying to break apart all that concrete. We came up with the idea -- a pergola that would frame an outside dining area.

We went to library and looked up designs and when my parents arrived they barely had time to put down their bags before we were off to the lumber store.

My dad was an avid landscaper and engineer but more importantly he was an artist. He had ideas that were not written in the books, things only an artist would think of. Within the weekend, and after a few gallons of sweet tea, we finished.

Waynesville, NC

A lot has changed since then. We sold our house, we traveled abroad, moved across country and bought a new house that my dad was never able to see. He passed away in November and it has been a such a difficult loss, no words could express my sadness.

This past weekend we finished our pergola. We used all the techniques dad taught us. I think he would approve.

Missoula, MT

A work in progress -- landscaping and more work to be done.

I am still out in the yard working most days. Unlike my husband, it is not to attack weeds or complete the list of projects at hand, it is something different. Something I can't explain but it must have been the same thing my dad felt -- a connection with nature, a different form of art or just being outside and chatting with the neighbors that go by. I have no choice really. It is just in my blood.

Still Waiting for Spring

2011-04-24T17:11:00.000-07:00

When my brother Bill called and said he wanted to visit during my spring break (love that I still have a spring break) I tried to warn him. April is not spring in Montana yet. Everything is still dead-looking. The grass, while you can see it for the first time since October, is still brown. He was coming from Atlanta. The dogwoods were blooming and it was definitely t-shirt flip-flop weather; I do not think he truly understood until he got here. The base layer of long underwear I gave him to ski in he wound up wearing daily.

We had to adapt our schedule a bit of showing him the area. Skied the last day at Discovery under a blanket of fresh powder. We had plans to visit Garnet Ghost Town but it was blocked with impassable 7-foot snow drifts. We hiked to Holland Falls during a snow shower. The fresh snow led us track large paw prints to a recently devoured deer.

The weather didn't keep us inside too much. We explored while bundled up and but still saw as much as we could.

Jeff and Bill skiing the last day at Discovery

Bruce the moose at River Park

Hike at Holland Lake

Big horn sheep

Still a ton of snow at Lolo Pass

Glade Creek Loop, Clearwater National Forest

View of the Swan Mountains

My friend went to Hawaii for spring break. I began to really doubt myself--why didn't I go to a beach somewhere? Why not enjoy some sand between my toes instead of thick SmartWool socks?

But then something happened. I noticed it immediately -- the sudden burst of color. The only bit of color, but it was spectacular. It is a sign of hope, a sign that spring is on its way. Our forsythia bloomed.

Nothing beats summers in Montana. There are endless trails to explore, and we have them all to ourselves; perfect temperatures (our house doesn't even have or need A/C), outdoor music festivals, fresh local farmers markets and endless daylight. We'll have over 18 hours of daylight on June 22. People start cutting their lawn around 10 pm. The whole city comes alive. Everyone is out and you can pack in so much in a day -- work, hike, yard work, house work, dinner with friends, all in a day.

Spring is the first step, and it looks like we are on our way!

We Buy Ugly Houses

2011-01-19T18:32:00.000-08:00

The second half of summer and most weekends since then have been eaten up by endless projects. Simple ones that you think will only take a day to complete drag out into much longer, complicated projects which require a lot of creative thinking to figure out.

Our home is an old 1940s house that was a family home but later became a rental which was neglected for years. We found dog hair balls that gave our vacuum a challenge.

We love ugly homes and this one was not a looker. When we were under contract, Jeff and I would do "drive bys" on our bikes (because we did not want the buyer to see us and know that we REALLY wanted the house) and we would ride by again and think, did we do the right thing?

I know we did. I love owning a place. I love making it our own and seeing the beauty in something that has been overlooked.

We are close to being finished with the attic/bonus room. I am not sure what to call it yet but months have been dragging out on it and we hope that space will be complete soon.

Then onto the kitchen. Then we have a bathroom window to replace. Then, there is plenty to do outside once the snow melts.We have landscaping to do, gardens to plant, a driveway to pour, and the list goes on.

Savoring the Last of Summer

2010-08-26T10:21:00.000-07:00

Before summer is officially over we took a big road trip. Here's the trip report:

Day One
Camped Kanisku National Forest

Day Two
Crossed border into Creston, BC
Ferry aross Kootenay Lake to Balfour
Hiked at Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park
Kayaked at lower lake
Camped New Denver

Day Three
Kayaked across Lake Slocan to base of hike at Valhalla Provincial Park
Camped at New Denver

Day Four
Hiked in Valhalla Provincial Park
Walked through Nelson
Camped at Kokanee Creek Provincial Park

Day Five
Hike at Kokanee Creek Provincial Park
Viewing of Kokanee Salmon Spawning
Ferry from Balfour
Kayaked North Star Forest Recreation Area
Camped at Elkford

Day Six
Hiked at Elk Lakes Provincial Park to upper and lower Elk Lake and to falls
Camped near Elk Lakes Provincial Park

Day Seven
Waterton Lakes National Park
Kayaked Cameron Lake
Camped at Crandell Mountain

Day Eight
Hiked Cameron Lake, Akamina Lake, Blakiston Falls, Snowshoe and Red Rock Canyon Loop
Kayaked Linnet Lake and Middle Waterton Lake
Camped at Crandell Mountain

Day Nine
Hiked to Crandell Lake
Returned to States
Visited Two Medicine at Glacier National Park
Kayaked Two Medicine Lake
Camped at Two Medicine

Day Ten
Kayaked Two Medicine to base of hike Upper Two Medicine Lake and Twin Falls
Returned home

Time with Family

2010-08-26T09:13:00.000-07:00

I love working for the public school district. I get things I never thought I would have again -- Christmas break, spring break and best of all -- summer vacation!

My free time spent was with family. While I love living in Montana, the remoteness of it feels at times isolating. Our guest bedroom has only been used by through cyclist we've invited to stay with us. Not many people have Montana as a major destination point for their vacation travels -- mostly because of the distance.

So instead, I went there. Traveled to the beach with my family for spring break, flew to Texas for Jeff's cousin's wedding and drove across country to Stone Mountain to spend a month of summer with my family.

School is starting back soon but I am ready for the routine and getting back to work. Our guest room is still ready for visitors!

View from Patterson's Bed and Breakfast - My Aunt and Uncle's place in Destin, Fla

Hitting the beach with Dad

Music from James O'Callaghan Patterson

Chuck E. Cheese birthday bash for Abigail

Pappy with Katie, Abigail and Summer

Patterson Clan -- in traditional girl/boy pose

Courtney's wedding in Texas

Jeff with his parents

Home improvement project -- building a new path around the pond before enjoying Manhattans on the patio

Bit Stale

2010-04-27T16:28:00.000-07:00

I know....it has been WAY too long since I have last updated my blog. You have probably giving up on even checking this page for updates and I have really let the blog go stale. But I have been busy this winter. Check it out to see!

Winter

2010-01-21T11:11:00.000-08:00

This is the routine:

Alarm goes off at 5:45 am
Shower (optional)
Drink a pot of coffee (not optional)
Fix breakfast
Make a lunch (usually leftovers from dinner or the standard turkey sandwich)
On the road before sunrise (pretty easy to do during winter in Montana)

The routine is really not much different than going to work but this schedule is also our weekend routine. Forget about sleeping-in and eating a big breakfast while reading the paper because the snow is good and we want fresh tracks. Every weekend since winter hit Montana we've done the same routine -- it always involves skiing.

Montana Snowbowl is our closest and local "resort" ski spot. Lift tickets are under 40 bucks and while the lifts are pretty slow (no high speed quads here) from door to lift it's about 20 minutes and you can't beat that. The views and terrain keeps you busy from first to last chair.

Shots from MSB

Lost Trail Pass is our next sweet ski spot. Jeff has a free pass to ski there from work and again tickets well under 40 bucks. Dogs are often seen wandering the parking lot, school buses often pull up packed with kids but the mountain has room and often we are on a run all by ourselves.

Shots from Lost Trail

Not to mention other ski resorts within an hour to hour-and-a-half, backcountry skiing, cross country skiing and snow shoeing the area. These pursuits are done on U.S. Forest Service land; brown Forest Service signs beckon to us as we drive the local canyons here -- trailheads like Bear Creek, Gold Creek, Rattlesnake, Kootenai Creek, Lookout Pass, Lolo Pass, Pattee Canyon and dozens of others we've seen on maps or heard about from friends but have yet to explore.

Lookout Pass

Lookout Pass

Gold Creek

Skijoiring with the Plott Hound

Bald Eagle on the way to Lolo Pass

Backcountry at Lolo Pass

Pair of Bald Eagles on the way to Rock Creek

Snowshoeing at Rock Creek

By Sunday evening, our faces are wind-burned, our calves a bit sore and a true sense of being tired settles in. I am ready for the work week but by Monday we are making plans for the upcoming weekend. We have along list of new areas to ski and explore: Cooke City, the Absaroka Mountains, Great Divide Ski Area, Elkhorn Hot Springs, the Big Hole (home to the largest unmanaged wolf population in the Lower 48), Scapegoat Wilderness Area, I could go on and on. OK, one more: Yellowstone National Park. Oh wait -- Glacier National Park. Oh wait -- the sprawling Bob Marshall Wilderness Area. Well, you get the picture.

But one thing is for sure -- we'll be up at 5:45 am on the weekend until there is no snow left. After all, that is one of the reasons why we moved here and I definitely am not disappointed -- maybe just a bit tired.

New Traditions

2009-12-22T10:15:00.000-08:00

We've been in Montana now for three months and are still getting used to our new life here. Monday morning is much different now that we are employed, and the weekends go by way too fast.

Hiking in the Bitterroot

While in Missoula we've been exploring the countryside with every free moment we have -- taking the dog out for a short hike after work, going for a jog alongside the nearly frozen Clark Fork and of course dawn patrol on the weekends heading to backcountry spots or to local ski areas.

Jeff backcountry skiing at Lolo Pass

Cross country skiing in the Clearwater National Forest

Downtown Christmas Parade

Carols and lighting of the Christmas tree

One of the holiday traditions here is harvesting your own Christmas tree. We got a special permit from Lolo National Forest for five bucks, complete with a tree guide so we could venture into the national forest and find our own tree.

We loaded up on coffee and took the dog into the Lolo on a snowy Sunday. We were bundled up because of the recent cold front left the Northern Rockies with single digit highs. We grabbed our saw and hiked until we found the perfect tree.

This was always a tradition in the Patterson household. The day after Thanksgiving, because usually everyone was home then, we would load up the Patterson Engineering survey van, hook up a trailer, and head out to the north Georgia mountains. We would go to a tree farm and as you can imagine, all four kids ran through the farm to find the tree for that year. We would shout to mom for the approval and dad who would do the sawing. We knew my sister's boyfriend was serious when she invited him along one year. They later married.

Now it is time for new traditions and ours has started this year. Our tree was glorious in the forest but a bit more "thin" once in our house. The ornaments kinda are too heavy for the limbs but the tree is priceless. It is more than a tree. It is sentimental: we had to hike to it, dust the snow off the limbs and we have it decorated with family ornaments made over the years. We are starting new memories and new ways to celebrate the holidays.

3-Day Weekend = Road Trip

2009-11-22T14:14:00.000-08:00

I had a three day weekend coming up so last Thursday while I was at work, Jeff packed the truck, the cooler, the skis and the dog. We had one stop on the way out of town -- a mocha to kick off the road trip (a Schmerker tradition). We went to Higher Grounds and then we were officially on the road.

the Mission Mountains, Mt

We headed north past Flathead Lake, had a gear store stop in Kalispell, dinner in Whitefish and then camped close to the border. We bundled up in the back of the truck and woke to a light crust of ice on our sleeping bags and a dusting of snow outside.

Flathead Lake, MT

We crossed the border and went into Fernie. I was in Jeff's territory now. He explored this area a few years ago on his winter "bachelor" ski trips. Each winter when we were living in North Carolina, I encouraged Jeff to take a solo winter ski trip where he could live on chips and salsa, sleep in the parking lots of ski areas, not have to worry about showering and relish in finding hidden backcountry ski spots just like to good old days. So this time, Jeff was my tour guide as we explored the town of Fernie, Kootenay Pass, Whitewater Ski Area and my personal favorite, the town of Nelson.

Fernie, BC

Nelson, BC

A cold and snowy morning in Nelson

On our trip we had some cold nights, early mornings, endless turkey sandwiches and snow which never stopped. I cross country skied with Couzy while Jeff would skin up the mountains and telemark down.

Whitewater Ski Area

My ski buddy

Kootenay Pass, BC

Every weekend since we've moved to Montana has been action-packed. Whether it is hiking Sentinel Peak, exploring the Bitterroot or scouting out backcountry ski areas, it is still hard to believe we live here. One thing is for sure: we are quickly making this our new home.

Shots from in and around Missoula:

The List

2009-10-20T16:16:00.001-07:00

Our year-long trip abroad gave us a lot of time to come up with perfect list of all the things we want and don't want in our new town. Since we had sold our house and quit our jobs, we could pretty much move anywhere, so the list really helped us narrow down our focus for quality of life living.

Here are the major things we looked for:

1. Skiing

While it was only a short drive to Catalochee from our old home in Waynesville, NC, the skiing there was not ideal; they once actually closed the ski area once when it snowed. Closing a ski area because it has some fresh powder -- not good for the Schmerker family.

2. Affordable Housing

Usually if you have skiing close by, you don't also find affordable housing. This narrowed down the list automatically for us. We want to buy another fixer-upper like we did before. Cheap, old and ugly is what we like -- and hopefully a place that has good gardening.

3. University or Continuing Education

Still need to work on my Spanish for more trips to Central America, South America and Mexico. I will probably take some more photography classes too.

4. Art and Culture

We will miss the community square dancing on sawdust on Main Street with the senator doing the calling but art and culture is important.

5. Near an Airport

Again, this knocks out a lot places. This was a big disappointment for Jeff, whose idea of an ideal community was remote Alaska. I have to be near an airport so I can fly back to my family whenever needed. Hopefully we can get visitors too.

6. Walkable Community

A place that promotes and dedicates to bike lanes, greenways and tons of city parks. No sprawl.

7. Not too Big, Not too Small

Jeff had an offer from a paper which was a really small town. It made Waynesville look like Atlanta. Too small is hard to do with two jobs. I want to feel safe where we are, too.

So after a year of creating our list we had some ideas. Once we returned though we did not anticipate the job market to be so devastated. Fortunately, we were flexible but then it came time to decide.

I packed up the trailer and drove it from Atlanta (through the floods) cross-country to Texas. The trip went pretty good and I had Couzy as my co-pilot. I was almost there when the left trailer tire shredded. I had to cross two lanes of traffic during rush hour on US 59 in Houston but I made it to a parking lot off the feeder. I was pretty worried about the trailer tire, especially when my brother Bill pointed out the dry-rot on the tire walls just as I was pulling out of the driveway. We've used the trailer to move from Utah to Texas to Stone Mountain to Waynesville then back to Stone Mountain. It has been a great investment. Jeff and Mary Lou came to rescue me and we decided because of the weight, we better call a professional. AAA came and soon I was back on the road. But our time in Texas was limited. We dropped off the trailer and truck, packed up the Altima and hit the road heading north.

All we needed was a rocking chair on top of the truck

I don't recommend camping in southern Mississippi. It was too hot.

Almost made it!

This is what happens when your tire walls have rot. Not pretty.

It took us awhile to get out of Texas. You don't really grasp the size until you are trying to leave and you drive all day and you are still in the state. We left just in time because things were starting to move. In north Texas I got a telephone call and we pulled over for a telephone interview.

Stopping at different towns along the way

Our portable home for a while

Fort Collins

Weird clip art along the way. I think this one was a moose.

Wyoming but still heading north

Here were the places we were thinking about:

1. Loveland
2. Boulder
3. Fort Collins
4. Missoula
5. Salt Lake City
6. Logan, Utah
7. McCall, ID
8. Sandpoint, ID
9. Incline Village (Lake Tahoe)

On our road trip we figured out a lot along the way and some of the job situations did not work out so again our list was narrowed. Incline Village did not really make the affordable living requirement but hey -- I would have lived in an igloo there!

So the list got narrower. We use to live in Salt Lake and it just seemed too big for us now. Fort Collins, Loveland and Boulder were really too far away from skiing. Logan we thought would be a little too conservative and McCall was maybe too small.

We pressed on and kept driving north. Eventually, we arrived in the Bitterroot Valley and Missoula. The view was absolutely breath-taking. The area was surrounded by mountains, greenways, bike paths and it had a local farmer's market, music in the evenings and even hiking and skiing (resort, cross country and backcountry) right nearby. In an instant we knew it was the place for us. It will take years to explore all there is to do here. We better get started. For now, I think we have found our new home.

Morning walk with Couzy near our campsite

Cold morning camping at Lake Placid

Morrell Falls hike

Drive to the trailhead

Swan Mountains

Swan Mountains

Hike at Seely Lake

Swan Mountains

Officially a Texan

2009-08-26T15:13:00.000-07:00

According to the government I am officially a Texan but actually I am still homeless. Last week, on a short trip to Houston, we registered my old Altima in Texas because the old North Carolina tags had expired. My husband and I are about a thousand miles apart right now. He is in Texas with his family and I am in Georgia with mine. We email, IM, Facebook and talk on our cell phones but we are still a world apart.

Backyard bliss at my family's house in Texas

Back to morning bike rides. Texas is hot but it is flat!

We are starting over from scratch. That means getting our cars registered, getting cell phones (we blew the Verizon Wireless guy away -- two humans without phones? How ever did we survive?) but most of all, getting our resumes together and applying for jobs. We are still trying to find the perfect snowy place to call home.

Our things are in boxes and one of the boxes holding all my clothes is missing! I am still wearing the same old black t-shirt from the trip and my dreams of wearing something cute are lost somewhere in my parent's attic. Probably a squirrel has a nice little nest with my favorite shirt from the Loft. Damn that squirrel.

Drive back to Atlanta - a stop in New Orleans

Businesses still abandoned

This parking lot was full of semi-trailers parking for a rest at night and gone by morning

As I look around at my stuffed childhood room's closet and check my email to see if my husband has written me with a new lead -- it occurs to me: This is why people don't do what we did! People don't generally quit great jobs, sell their house, leave their dog, box up valuables and leave their family and friends to travel abroad for a year.

While it has been stressful (there is a reason why adults move out of their parents house!) and our future is still unknown, I wouldn't trade it for anything really. The experiences we had were priceless. I figure, I did that, I know I can do anything. I will just put another squirt of fabric freshener on my old black shirt. It lasted a year -- I know it can last a little bit longer.

The World Around

2009-08-08T13:33:00.000-07:00

We made it. Our last stop in Malta was nothing short of delightful (thought I would ask the tourism authority to reconsider the hourly cannon blasts). Before we knew it we were on our last flight of the trip, crossing the Atlantic and back in the South again.

Being savvy travelers, we opted to jump on MARTA at the airport and have my parents meet us at the Decatur station instead of the usual meeting point at baggage claim. It is always a bit stressful waiting to see if your bag actually made it but it was an easy process at Hartsfield and we were pretty used to family not greeting us at the airport by now. In Decatur, we went past the turnstalls, exited the MARTA station and after a short wait my parents pulled right up the curb. It was incredible how easily our trip came to an end. Pretty anticlamtic, really.

We were soon making bean burritos, washing our clothes (several times) in an actual washing machine, taking long showers with plenty of hot water, and watching cable tv. It is a bit overwhelming to go so long without so much and then so suddenly back to the way things used to be (well, we never had cable TV). You do the same things but you feel different. Things as simple as driving to the grocery store, drinking unlimited cups of coffee or taking my dog on a run. Things I used to just do and now seem to appreciate so much more.

Burrito Time!

Life kept going while we were away. Once we back we visited friends who had babies, visted our friends who had new houses, had dinner with friends, celebrated my dad's birthday, and spent a weekend at the lake cabin with family. All the special events we missed while we were away we tried to catch up on since we have been back. We missed out on a lot.

Bill and Tracie at Dad's Birthday Celebration

Spent the night at my sister's house and walked with the kids to their first day of school.

Kaite

Abigail

Summer

Lauren and Harper

It has been tough, basically starting over from scratch. We are searching now for our a new town out West -- a snowy, wintery wonderland to call our new home. One thing we decided was that after spending a year in some of the world's hottest places we never want to be hot again. Not sure where it will be yet. We do know we will have a guest bedroom just waiting for a visit from our family and friends. We won't be that far away.

Time Melted in Malta

2009-07-30T14:01:00.000-07:00

Malta was technically our last country to visit. To get our discounted around-the-world plane ticket we had to spend a night in London but when you factor in sleep, foraging for cheap food and traveling from one airport to the other, there really wasn't much time to see England.

Malta was an easy, hassle-free place and the week went by all too quickly. We caught a bus from the airport and crossed the island and in less than an hour we had checked into our hotel. With no reservations or really any planning at all, Malta was a synch to figure out and explore which was just what we needed.

Grand Harbor View

Our hotel, Grand Harbor View, overlooked an active bay with working tankers (Jeff's grandfather would have loved it!), fishermen and kids cooling off with a swim in the Mediteranean. We had a little table and chairs set on the balcony in our room and we turned that into our fine dining area.

Traditional Fishing Boat

We would wake up early (the hourly cannon blasts made it easy) and have a delicious breakfast on the roof top of our hotel. Then we would head out to the local markets and buy bread, veggies, olives, fruit and cheese for a picnic later in the day. We would check our map, head to the bus station and be at our desintation in less than an hour and have it cost less than a dollar.

We found this sweet swimming spot but not telling where it is!

Crazy cliff jumper -- there is always someone diving off of it into the water.

We varied our day with exploring ancient churches, aimlessly wandering narrow cobblestone streets surrounded by stunning archeiture or swimming at the local swimming holes.

Coach Kile will be proud -- Jeff getting in his swim workout in the Mediterranean.

The only restaurants open at night were way our of our budget rainge so at night we would dine in our hotel room. Most the business are only open from 7 am to 2 pm (not a bad place to work huh?) so that meant we had to buy wine and dinner items before the town would shut down. From our balcony and with a cheap bottle of wine we could watch the sunset over the harbor.

View from our hotel room.

Local swimming hole.

We were tempted at one point to catch the ferry and spend the day in Sicily but the more we thought about it, the more we just didn't want to leave Malta. It was so relaxing and just the perfect place to unwind. After all our hard work -- hacking our way across South America, riding our bikes every inch of the way across Tasmania, putting up with bugs and heat and whatnot in Asia, Malta in many ways felt like being on "vacation" as opposed to traveling. For now, the traveling is over, although there is so much more to see -- we have never been to central Asia, good parts of Africa, and even areas of Europe. There is a lot out there -- for now, seeing it will have to wait! We made a good start but here is still so much we did not see!

Roman Ruins -- Tunisia

2009-07-22T10:43:00.000-07:00

On our last trip we spent some time in Morocco and I loved it.

Tunisia -- not so much.

This is the deal. The ruins are amazing. If you go anywhere in Tunisia other than the magnificent ruins at El Jem or Carthage, you will have it all to yourself -- well except for the random people hanging out, sometimes in the dark corners, trying to sell you random things like ancient coins (illegal), postcards and dry flowers someone said I could buy in order to get the seeds. Needless to say, the hassle factor in Tunisia needs its own scale similar to the ratings of the rapids in the Grand Canyon section of the Colorado River. To quote a Mad TV skit, it’s a “whole nutha level.”

But you still get to enjoy ancient ruins, mosaic tiled rooms which make you feel in awe of the detail, and medieval mazes wandering the cobblestone streets in the medinas.

On a positive note, we made a great investment here -- two hand-tied Berber carpets that I utterly love. All I need now is a house and I guess with at least two rooms to put them in.

When I was at the ruins or wandering the streets or visiting the medinas, I was pretty much lost in the moment. As a wanna-be photographer, Tunisia had plenty of inspiration and honestly so much to take in visually. You just have to have tough skin. Mostly I just shook my head no and would keep walking as I was followed by catcalls, pushy merchants and begging kids. I got to where I was saying “no” so much I said it at the wrong times, like when the hotel receptionist would ask me what room I was staying in so we could get our keys.

I have thick skin but honestly am wearing down a bit. Still recovering from the "bug" I got in Madagascar and just generally feeling pretty tired. What we are doing here could in no way really be termed a vacation. We wake up early and do an immense amount of things in a day. After doing this for almost a year it begins to wear you down. With that and the two new carpets in my backpack I have begun to lose the spring in my step and have begun to look forward to a change of scenery – you know, things like sleeping in a real bed.

But still, we got to experience wonders, like the sunset at the coliseum in El Jem, the cobblestone streets in Sidi Bou Said. There is so much to see and I don't want to miss it. If you ask me if I am tired now I would just keep walking and shake my head “no.”

Lemur Time - Madagascar

2009-07-07T04:08:00.000-07:00

Wildlife has been the highlight of this trip and Madagascar did not disappoint. We focused on seeing different national parks heading south and west away from the capital and along the good roads to make the most of our time.

Parks

There were no crowds at the parks -- in fact there were not many tourist at all and that was probably because of the recent political coup.

One requirement of visiting the parks was that hiring a guide was manadatory. It limited our freedom to exlpore but we learned a lot more than our books could explain.

Parc National de Ranomafana

Sportive lemur is getting a bit of sun before going to sleep in the tree.

Listening for any possible predators.

Anja Reserve

Ring-Tailed Lemurs

Half Cat - Half Monkey?

They eat flowers and berries.

Parc National de l'Isalo

View overlooking the valley floor.

Chameleon

Oasis in the desert.

Chameleon

Ring-Tailed Lemur

Chameleon

Blue Waterfall - an original name.

Travel

Less than 25 percent of the country's roads paved. As though that was not enough to make travel a challenge you also have to put up with dangerously overcrowded taxi-brousses ('bush taxis'), villagers using the narrow roads to move their zebu cattle herds, piles of rice set out on the roads to dry, and the fact that the roads are used by the village kids walking to school.

Taxi-Brousse

Most break down en route and with the loads they carry you can see why.

Scenery

Poverty and pollution surrounded by spectacular scenery made the views equally stunning.

Boy outside his home

Baobab tree - they take over 100 hundred years before they start to flower and grow branches.

Villagers often have to walk miles for water.

Village kids asking us for candy.

Dry grass invading after deforestation.

We spent 10 days but it was not enough to see the world's fourth largest island. The whole time I was in Madagascar I suffered from traveler's sickness. Though we were filtering our water, I was ill the whole trip making 10 days long enough for this time. I will have to return and next time with more Pepto.

Budget Traveling in Mauritius

2009-06-25T05:43:00.000-07:00

When you think of Mauritius you think of glossy magazine photos of destintation weddings and honeymoon vacations -- not your typical backpacker place, but this former French colony was actually an affordable paradise.

Winter in Mauritius
* No humidity
* No crowds
* No pesky bugs
* Average highs in the 70s
* Average lows in the 50s

Budget Friendly
* Across the island on public transportation: $1.75
Private transportation across the island: $35
* Bus to the airport: 50 cents
Taxi to the airport: $5
* Room with a kitchen and 3 minute walk to the beach: $27 a night

Activities
* Walking on the beach
* Snorkeling right off the sandy beaches - vibrant coral
and colorful fish (just avoid the sea urchins)
* Shaded umbrellas made of bamboo and palm leaves so fair-skinned
ones like me can spend the day at the beach and not suffer
third-degree burns
* Lighten your pack by burning through books we've picked up and
traded along the way
* Sunsets or sunrises depending on which coast you are on
And it was all free!

Food
Expresso, wine, cheese, baguettes, pastries -- need I say more? Seafood is plentiful, fresh and affordable but after five months in Asia the last thing we wanted was to have fish! Having our own kitchen allowed us the simple pleasures of cooking our own favorite foods.

We averaged $55 dollars total per day meaning even budget travelers like us could afford to relax and enjoy this tiny tropical island in the Indian Ocean. In fact, it was hard to leave.

Detour

2009-06-13T07:55:00.000-07:00

We visited our local library, searched and posted questions on the Internet and poured over maps after after dinner while still finishing our wine. We planned. We saved stories from National Geographic magazines. We were investing so much into this trip: the securities of our jobs, selling our home and leaving friends and family behind. We planned intensively but there are some things you just can`t plan on: cancer is one of them.

I was in an Internet cafe halfway around the world when I got the emails about my dad. He would need surgery and all I knew is that I wanted to be there with him. Bangkok is just the place to be when you need to leave fast. I bought a ticket in the morning and went to the airport that night.

Jeff and I divided our gear and he went onto Myanmar and Oman solo. My ticket was round trip just in case things went smoothly in Atlanta and I could rejoin Jeff for the rest of our trip.

My dad is who I got my wandering spirit from. He traveled to Russia in the 1980s, he's been to Europe, South America, sailed numerous times through the British Virgin Islands and hitchhiked around the states. He calls me Marco Polo but really he is the one who gave me the idea to see what else is out there. I definitely have my dad`s sense of adventure.

Dad greeting me at the airport

I spent a little more than two weeks in Atlanta. Time with my family went by so quickly: my neice`s graduation from elementary school, pottery class with my dad and brothers, bluegrass at Lake Hartwell and then 5:30 a.m. at the Emory University hospital.

Me, James, Meri and Bill - (Girl, Boy, Girl, Boy) - My brothers and sister

Mom and Dad

Couzy on Squirrel Patrol at the Lake

James getting ready for his set at the Bluegrass Festival

Gardening is our favorite thing

Dad and Bill at Pottery

We took turns being with dad during his recovery and in his dark room at night. Sleeping in his room`s broken chair was not that different from several bus or train rides we`ve had abroad. In the night I hear a sound and someone stirring, and I remember where I am. It is my dad. He says to me, You`ve got the car keys...We are busting out of here.

I knew then that dad was going to be OK and I would soon be packing.

Mom and Dad

Tiger Temple

2009-05-14T01:46:00.000-07:00

After our trip to Taiwan, we returned to Bangkok. We made our way to the Myanmar Embassy to start our visa process. It would be several days before it would be ready so we decided to take an excursion about two hours south east to Kanchanaburi. The small town has lots to do there from war memorials, museums, the tiger temple and nothing says tourism like riding the famous "death train". (adrenalin junkies be aware -- the name is from many prisoners of war who died while building the tracks -- actually nothing to do with dying while riding the train).

Jeff went to the museum (I think because they offered free coffee with your entrance ticket) and I ventured to Wat Luangta Bua Yannasampanno Forest Monastery -- also known as the Tiger Temple.

Just a few things to be aware of before going:

Do not wear the color red.

Do not wear any perfume or strong scents.

Do not have anything dangling from your body.

If you are unsure why, then you better not go.

The temple was not exactly what I expected. First thing you do is sign waiver that they are not responsible if you are attacked (to date -- no one has been). There are handlers and monks and the big cats.

They are enormous, especially their head and their paws. To be so close to them was a real treat but it was better just watching them from a safe distance.

The temple began caring for the tigers when cubs were found after their mother had been a victim of poachers. The monks cared for the tigers and unfortunately, they are so near the area where the tigers live and poacher try to make their profits, their tiger population has grown.

(also have other random wildlife living there)

They are currently working on a rehabilitation center so they can re-release the cubs once they are old enough to return to the wild.

Still it was a bit strange -- a cross between a petting zoo and church. I am glad I went but hope there can be more done to prevent the tragedies poachers cause.

Good Times in Taiwan

2009-04-29T03:37:00.000-07:00

Just how exactly did we end up traveling in Taiwan? Entry required no visa, there was a flight sale from bangkok and it was a country we had not been to. Those random factors pretty much sums it up.

Taroko Gorge

Taiwan is not your usual backpacker kind of place. Mostly the country is visited en masse by group tours from China and Korea. We turned quite a few heads as independent travelers in the country though it was really easy to get around. At any point we could head to the train station and catch a ride to the next place. The trains ran on time and were such a convienent way to travel that we pretty much traveled the whole island that way. That is except when we took a crazy ferry ride across the swelling seas to remote Green Island. The boat ride was an experience not soon forgotten. The rough seas were not for the weak stomach. When we boarded the boat we were set for the tough trip but not for the other passengers. Soon as we left the harbor we were launching off waves and surrounded by sea sick passengers. Jeff and I have never been sea sick but there are only so many times you can see someone else get sick without it feeling like a barf-o-rama. We put on our MP3s to blast our favorite tunes and drown out the noise and closed our eyes till we arrived.

Green Island

The island was once heavily visited -- though for a different reason than tourism. It used to house political prisoners during the 1950s White Terror period. Now the political prison has been turned into a musuem. Cells have been used as a modern art exhibition for different artists. It was very moving to see and to be reminded of the importance of freedom of speech and political association.

Green Island Lodge now a human rights memorial

Besides that the island is surrounded by nature. We rented bikes and cycled the island, hoping off to take different hikes along the way.

That was one of the biggest surprises about Taiwan -- the national parks were impressive. The mountains, marble stone canyons and miles of desereted hiking trails made the country a big hit with the Schmerkers. It really reminded us of what we usually do when we are at home -- spend the weekend hiking and being outdoors. It was a pleasant surprise.

Alishan National Scenic Area
The train climbs from 30 m to above 2200m through 49 tunnels and over 77 bridges.

Hike through the giant tree trail -- surrounded by trees over 2,000 years old

Tour group ahead! But fortunately every tour went on only this hike which we quickly avoided.

When we were not in nature we went explored some larger cities. The temples were surrounded by skyrises. The candles were near neon lights. It had a complete mix of ancient traditional temples and thriving modern city life. A perfect balance between the two.

The only down side of Taiwan was the food. The food was a bit too adventurous for us. They used a lot of parts of animals I would not normally think could be used -- for eating. It was a bit scary at times -- not knowing exactly what things were. I ended up buying some bread at the bakery and getting a jar of peanut butter to tie me over. It worked fine but left us hungry a lot of the time.

Next time, I think Jeff and I should tour Taiwan with our bikes. Cycling down the eastern side of Taiwan would be specatular and I am sure a close rival to the Great Ocean Road back in Australia. It will have to wait, though, for our next trip.

Survivor -- Sri Lanka

2009-04-12T01:02:00.001-07:00

I've never actaully seen the show "Survivior" but I feel it sums up my time here. It has been difficult. The pollution, heat and tuk-tuk harrasment can be a bit overwhelming at times - even for those with tons of patience. Sri Lanka is a bit like functioning chaos. You survive, but it takes everything out of you.

The bus stations are filled with thick clouds of fumes, shouts and blaring horns. The food -- though cheap (food for two people with Coke is about $2.50) the rice and curry three times a day and usually with a few rocks thrown in can be uninspiring. The archelogical sites are incredible but often in disarray: still "being excacvated" but with no one "actually working on it." For entry to sites, the tourist price is often posted right next to the local price. An example of this: entrance into a park is $12 for a tourist and 50 cents for a local. It is not that I mind paying a bit more but when it is always posted you are aware of how much you are being overcharged.

While traveling from town to town on the bus or even towns we have stayed in you can still witness the areas ravaged by the tsunami in 2004. Everyone has stories that want to share about how in just mintues their life changed. Family memembers were lost, the desruction and worst of all -- no warning. It was really difficult to see and to know that it could all happen again.

I have been feeling a bit run down here and even actually had to go to the hospital due to a brief scare when my eye became bloody. The news from the doctor was it was eye truama and will fortunately heal in two weeks on its own. He was not sure of the cause but you could pick from any number of things here. I was glad to leave the hospital though -- stray cats in the halls, stains on the wall and equipment that appeared to be donated during the colonial times. It is not a country you want to be sick in.

Despite the hardships, overall the highlights of the whole trip for me has been the wildlife and Sri Lanka did not disappoint. The Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage was a site to see. The herd (many orphans or disabled) feasted on breakfast and I then walked with them to the river and watched them bathe, play and wrestle in the water. Their sounds were much different than I thought. They would make bellowing calls of not being happy or would totally go under water using only their trunk to breath like a snorkle. I did not know elephants could do that.

We also went to the beach in Rekawa at night to a turtle conservation project. When one was spotted we ran a kilometer down the beach to see an enormous meter-long green turtle struggle through the sand and lay 138 eggs -- I know how many it was because we got to count the eggs and move them to a safer location. It was priceless and breathaking experience.

Am I glad I came to Sri Lanka? The answer is yes! It has been tough and uncomfortable but this struggling country with years or internal war and such amazing history (caves filled with painting and statues, the sacred bo tree and a golden tomb holding Buddha's tooth) is not something you can read about in a magazine or watch a show about on TV -- you have to be here and be a part of it. It is all a part of the experience but I am glad that I survived.

Photos from Wat Pho, Bangkok - Thailand

2009-03-28T23:20:00.000-07:00

Lazy in Thailand

2009-03-26T03:59:00.000-07:00

I feel pretty bad because we are truly living it up now. We've been staying in bungalows, watching the sunrise and the sunsets over the water and may have a semi-permanent waffle imprint on my back from lounging in the hammock for so long. We are burning through our books, almost as fast as we can trade them for new ones. We are officially tourist.

Ferry to Koh Samui

We deserve it right?

Luxury resorts surround our budget place -- I think the days are numbered for Matlang.

It is super cheap and we are making the most of our shoe-string budget. A bungalow, on the water is less than 15 bucks. We have freshly cut fruit for pennies. We still are dining at the street stalls but the food is a much better value. Grilled pork with basil and chilies complete with sticky rice and a beer is less than 3 bucks.

View from the beach at Koh Samui

We splurged though and actually went on a snorkeling trip for the day. We happily dove in and were soon swimming with black trip reef sharks, barracudas, colorful fish and the most vibrant coral.

The water is so clear

Being fair skin near the equator or in any tropical weather has been tough. Despite lathering sunscreen and wearing a SPF shirt, I got a pretty bad burn. Too bad I did not think to wear shorts over my bathing suit too.

Jeff checking out the shark situation

Sunset on Koh Tao (Turtle Island)

The islands are every bit as beautiful as the movie the Beach. Just wish we had found it before Leonardo.

Romance

2009-03-20T19:07:00.000-07:00

How to keep the romance alive with 365 days of traveling abroad -- just follow these tips to keep your sanity and passion for your partner.

1. Day Apart
Every time I mention this to my husband he gets an uncontrollable smile and I can see his brain ticking off the possibilities. We generally try to take one day apart per week so we can keep our independence and have new things to talk about. When we are at home, often I will go see a friend or my family for the weekend or Jeff will go do a crazy hitchhiking hiking trip. We appreciate each other all the more after having some alone time.

2. Date
Once a week one person always asks the other out on a date. You may think this is crazy considering we are traveling but all the more reason. It doesn't have to be anything elaborate; it is the thought that counts. In Uruguay I surprised Jeff with a trip to the local market which was famous for its steaks. He got to pick out his steak and watch a sweaty, beefy guy grill it to perfection. Jeff surprised me with a trip to the local botanical gardens and bike ride along the coast of Warnambool. It is more than just a date, it is a way to reconnect and remember how to appreciate each other.

3. Don't let the little things get to you
We, like most couples, have our individual "quirks" that can be compounded by the stress of traveling. I tend to drive Jeff crazy with dental floss somehow not making it to the trash can. (I promise I put it in there!) Jeff tends to want to arrive at the airport or bus station about three to four hours early because he is worried we will somehow miss the flight or bus. He spends all night worrying about how things might go wrong along the way. We have yet to miss a flight and now I bring my book for the long wait before we can actually check in. If you let the little things bother you, it will just drive you crazy. We just laugh about it and we know that is what makes us different but yet work.

Many people think that traveling is like a long vacation but it is not. While it is an amazing experience -- seeing new places, experiencing different cultures -- it takes a lot out of you. Often you are either sick, feeling sick or about to be sick. You are tired. We often wake up about 5 or 6 a.m. to catch buses, ferries or begin our day. We are often uncomfortable, like when we are in tropical climates without air conditioning. We travel like the locals -- we hire a motorcycle taxi, or we hop on a tuk-tuk or bemo crowded with local farmers. We are on a tight budget. We've saved and budgeted for a year. Daily we record our expenses -- and compute everything to be sure we are on budget. We always shop around for the best deals and eat at the local food stalls. But I am not complaining. We are having the time of our lives and this opportunity has enriched us and strengthen our relationship and as individuals.

I think every couple should travel together. You get to see each other at your best -- like on a sunset walk on the beach or arriving at a mountain summit after a long, grueling hike; and at your worst - like when being barraged by food poisoning or giardiasis or when your bus just had its fifth flat tire of the day and there is not a spare tire and it has to be pumped up with a bicycle pump after being patched.

But in the end it's that "challenge" that makes you a stronger couple.

I'm off now -- to plan a date for my traveling partner for life. We are celebrating our five year anniversary tomorrow.

Around Philippines

2009-03-16T02:18:00.000-07:00

Sagada

Hanging Coffins

Burial Caves

Bontoc

You'll notice a large board hanging from the bridge. I made it halfway across before I saw the wire-repair job and did not think it was safe to cross. I hung out on the other side and took photos while Jeff made his way through the terraces in Bontoc.

Maligcong

We took a jeepney early in the morning to Maligcong. We followed a trail up the mountain. We got lost a few times but locals helped us find our way to the ridge. The overlook was worth the hard work of getting there

Check out this handsome guy sporting an ad for Noth Face no doubt!

The patches of green are rice -- soon it will be ready to be planted.

Batad

We hired a guide, took a motorized tricycle and hiked into Batad.

This is the village.

He shared a story with me about hunting and eating a wild pig. He used its tusks to make arm bracelets.

I definitely want to come back to the Philippines. We did not originally plan on coming here on this trip but flights were so cheap from Borneo we thought, why not? Our good friend Michelle, lived here during her Peace Corps days and she pointed us in the right direction with cool air and hiking but we definitely need to come back.

Vigan

2009-03-16T00:43:00.000-07:00

Vigan is the only United Nations World Heritage city in the Philippines and its Spanish colonial architecture survived the bombings in World War II. It's an old city slowly modernizing. Dangling, twisting power lines run along the streets and even though it is fire safety month, it appears there were many historic homes and businesses destroyed by fire.

This bustling and quite polluted town was interesting to explore but not a place you want to stay too long.

Calle Crisologo

Woman cleaning fish

Calle Crisologo street is blocked off for pedestrian and horse & carriages

Along the street there are wagon wheels, harps and other wooden art

A horse and carriage along the cobblestone street

Wooden framed mirror at one of the shops along the street

Crisologo Museum

The museum is in the house Crisologo used to live in -- Crisologo was an early senator

St. Paul's Cathedral

Hiking in Malaysia

2009-03-01T20:08:00.000-08:00

The national parks and hiking in Malaysia has been a highlight for me on this trip. We really got spoiled hiking in the mountains in western North Carolina and I thought nothing could compare but Malaysia has been impressive.

Everything is so different and on a different scale like an ant walking across the path, larger than your big toe, a plant you may have bought as a house plant naturally living in the jungle with leaves bigger than your whole body. The sounds are so different too, large crashes when the monkeys are swinging or the birds singing with an unique call.

And the best part is we have the parks to ourselves.

Brunei

2009-03-01T19:42:00.000-08:00

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque cost 5 million dollars to build in 1958.

This is a saturday night in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan or BSB, the capital of Brunei. The night life looks a bit like Waynesville.

Borneo

2009-02-21T22:41:00.000-08:00

Bako National Park

We took a bus for about an hour out of Kuching to a boat ramp and hired a guy to take us by boat to the park.

Proboscis Monkey
The male has this unusual nose.

The males are also pretty large. It was hard to believe this limb could hold him up. Their coloring is also really unique with the long white tail.

They travel is small groups.

This Moniter Lizard was out sunning. It is hard to see from this photo but they are huge. This one was about 6 feet in length.

The Silvered Langurs (the naughty monkey). There were several warnings about these guys but we did not have any problems. They were fun to watch.

Orangutan Rehabilitation Center

Forgive me for so many photos but I just could not help myself!

Scenes from Tana Toraja

2009-02-17T19:41:00.000-08:00

Cash is not king in Toraja but wealth is determined by number of buffalo a person owns. After a day of lounging, (buffalo are not used for work) are washed and brought back to the home.

Toraja is famous for traditional funerals and burials. A new site is being carved out here, taking up to 6 months to chisel the dense rock.

Tau Tau or wooden effigies are created in the personals likeness, sometimes even wearing their clothes, glasses or holding a cigarette.

Traditional funerals are very expensive and it may take a family years before they can afford to bury their family member.

Makale Market

Woman chews beetroot while drying rice.

Each paddy must be rebuilt before each planting.

Kids get out of school about noon so they can help their families with the rice fields.

Changing Gears

2009-01-26T01:07:00.000-08:00

After two months of cycling in Australia, we've traded in our bikes for "bemos" and are now island hopping in Indonesia, arriving in Bali first.

We took a few days for some much needed rest in Seminyak before then heading north to Ubud which was a fantastic city filled with art, rice paddies, temples and the Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

Tirta Gangga, Bali

The Water Palace - Taman Tirta Gangga

Kuta,Lomok

One night we were eating at a local restaurant overlooking the ocean and were fortunate enough to watch the local villagers prepare and head out for a night of fishing. As darkness fell, there was a city of lights out on the water.

Halfway Around

2009-01-14T22:33:00.000-08:00

Then

Leaving Houston, Texas

Now

Hiking at Freycient National Park

Our clothes are taddered and faded and at times we are tired but it is hard to keep from just smiling. We are 6 months into our trip and halfway around.

Inner Circle

2009-01-05T19:35:00.000-08:00

Trip Account:

1,704.3 km cycled
50,841 vertical feet
11 more days of riding to go!

Gear List:

1 tent
2 sleeping bags
2 sleeping pads
1 water filter
2 Nalgene water bottles
2 hydration packs
1 stove
2 fuel bottles
plates, utensils and pocket knife
2 pots and 1 pan
coffee filter (because starting the morning with instant coffee just wouldn't be right)
food for the day
2 cameras
batteries and battery charger
2 sets of panniers
2 large backpacks
1 day pack
clothing and toiletries
maps
biking tools
books (currently reading: The Feast of the Goat) - Jeff would not admit but he took possibly as many as 13 books along for our tour which we read then pass along to lighten our load.

Wineglass Bay

Tasmania has a feel of being its own place - separate from the "Mainland." It feels a bit like Alaska, a part of a country but because of its remoteness there is a feeling of disconnect. Many cars are tough SUVs complete with snorkel ready for any adverse condition. The rural environment makes the cycling a bit more difficult. It takes planning to arrange a route that corresponds with towns that have a grocery store that will be open past, say, 5 p.m. It feels a bit lawless here but even so we have made many friends.

South of Bicheno

Freycient National Park

Hazards Beach

With the natural spacing of towns, we ended up meeting several cyclist leaving Launceston and heading toward St. Helens, just as we were doing. On the road, you become instant friends with other bikers, who because of the common challenges are people that you can relate to. You talk about the hills, the headwind, the current rainstorm and you know they understand; they are pedaling everyday, just like you. You become a team, share milk in the morning, water filters in camp and tools to repair the unexpected troubles with your bikes. We've met some incredible people along the way -- our own inner circle of friends.

New Year's Eve - Watching the Penguins

Bicheno

Hiking in Freycient

When you are biking you get to see things that a car whizzing by would never see. Often I hop off my bike and watch an echidna feeding along side the road or watch a wombat roam through the high grass. On the other hand, if there is a lighthouse at the end the road and it is more than 20 km roundtrip, Jeff and I will look at each other and say, "We've seen lighthouses, right?" and continue on our route. We do not skimp on the important things, though, like a nice cup of coffee for breakfast and lots of Tasmanian red wine. Those are the comforts that make this experience all that more enjoyable.

Wallaby

We've had tough days, no doubt. It can be really difficult at times when you are tired, it is raining or the winds are so strong you feel like you are going to be blown over. A few more days until Hobart and then only two more weeks of cycling after that. I know I will miss being on the road but for now I need to get ready for Break-Me-Neck-Mountain Pass (the real name of a mountain we have to cross tomorrow) but don't worry, I think that was named back in the horse and buggy days.

Happy Holidays!

2008-12-25T16:27:00.000-08:00

We miss everyone but wishing you a happy and festive holiday season!

Tasmania

2008-12-25T16:08:00.000-08:00

Day Trip from Queenscliff taking ferry over to Sorrento, Victoria.

Good Times - Downhill!

Bad Times - Quick change of flat tire

Dove Lake Trail - Cradle Mountain National Park

Enchanted Forest - Cradle Mountain

Sun, Snow, Wind and Clear Skies...All in one day!

Wombat - Nice from afar but not at night while your
sleeping in your tent.

Echidna

They hide their face in the dirt and think you can
no longer see them.

Wallaby

Hiking at Cradle Mountain

Sunset near Growrie Park

No Slacker

2008-12-07T17:45:00.000-08:00

Been awhile since my last update so here is the Cliff Notes of the latest news.

Left Quito (on our discount ticket) taking us to Panama, Orlando and finally to Atlanta. Unfortunately, Jeff's bag did not make it. Later it was delivered and we spent the short layover visiting with friends and family. We celebrated thanksgiving, Jeff's and my Mom's birthday. Jeff's parents came from Texas and my brother flew in from Telluride. Made a short trip to Waynesville to see the Boundary Street gang, old friends, Jeff to the dentist and to pick up our dog, Couzy who will stay with a friend in Altanta for the rest of our trip. We also had to prepare for the second leg of our trip. We purchased a tent, gathered our biking equipment and before we knew it, time to get back on the road again.

Thanksgiving & Birthday Celebrations

Family Gathering- Dad, Mom, James, Meri & Bill

Getting Ready for a Grub Session

Colorado Jimmy Pickin'

I thought we could rest on our long flight to Sydney only to find out our row's electrical was not working right. We spent the night and the 20 hour flight with our overhead lights beaming on us. One of many problems we had with United but happy to finally make it to Australia.

We were pretty jet-lagged but we walked around the city which was breath-takingly clean, quite and safe compared to South America. It felt like paradise.

The next day we caught a bus and headed to Melbourne. We spent a day shopping for used bikes, packed up and headed out. We've been cycling and camping along the Great Ocean Road.

First Day Leaving Melbourne

Our New Home -- Thanks to REI

A Good Day - 10 Miles of Downhill After a
2,500 feet vertical climb - Yahoo!

Cycling the Great Ocean Road

The head-winds are fierce, the roads hilly but some of the most spectacular beaches I have ever seen.

Airey's Inlet

Sleeping Near Our Tent

Airey's Inlet Lighthouse

The Arch

The 12 Apostles

On the Road

2008-11-06T14:14:00.000-08:00

It was time to move on from Peru. Unfortunately the only bus we could catch was a night bus. The day we bought our tickets, all the computers were down in Peru so we only had a handwritten paper ticket. At the bus station, we found out our seat assignments were never entered into the computer once they were working again so instead of seat 1 and 2 we had seat numbers 54 and 55. We almost did not make it on.

That was a long night. Every pothole and swerve made it seem so much more drastic. I think that was part of the plan for the buses that travel at night -- so you do not actually see the potholes, cliffs with recent landslides and steep ascents. But that was just the beginning of leaving Peru. Now I know why most people fly when in the country.

From Huaraz we went to Trujillo, Chiciayo, Puira and then crossed the border into Ecuador. Seems like a scenic way to see the country? It was rough. One of the roads the buses went on was a sandy track in the desert. An 18 wheeler (why is it there, anyway?) got stuck in the sand and was blocking the road. Soon we were the ones blocking the road when our tire blew out. It took about an hour for the guys to figure out how to change the tire without a jack. They used rocks. It was a slow process and a test in patience.

Our route in Ecuador was just as adventurous, taking us from town to town, backtracking and still more flat tires to get us where we wanted. Finally we made it to the coast. The sandy beaches and surfer town of Montanita made it worth the rough road to get there.

I took a surfing lesson. My instructor, Pancho, was also a lifeguard so it was good to know he could also rescue me if I needed -- some of the waves were huge. He was great but my Spanish was a bit rough. I could never tell if he was telling me to turn around or to keep paddling. It was exilirating though -- my first wave and I was hooked. We stayed another day so I could rent a board and do some more surfing.

Did he say turn around or paddle? Yikes!

We headed onto Puerto Lopez which is not a great town but the best place to catch a boat to Isla de la Plata, also known as Poor Mans´ Galapagos. I doubt it compares to Galapagos (though it is definitely cheaper!) but it was really cool to see the blue boobies so close with eggs or young hatchlings. Hiking on the island, we were able to see so many because their nests are built on the ground . After hiking we did some snorkling off the coast then headed back and on the way saw two humpback whales.

Typically lay two to three eggs over
several days

The dating dance

Today we hiked in the national park at Playa Los Frailies. The trail wandered through forest and out to desolate beaches. We felt like the only ones there.

Nursing a serious sunburn (I have discovered fair skin and the equator do not mix) we hit the road tomorrow for a rooftop train ride and swing back to the mountains. Keep your fingers crossed for us -- no more flat tires!

Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

2008-10-27T16:42:00.000-07:00

Warm-up hike the day before but ended up being a bunch of ladders somewhat bolted to the mountain, missing pieces and at times dangling over ravines -- I decided without climbing ropes was too insane. Jeff went ahead and Bill and I became targets for the no-see-éms bugs that attacked us. I still itch.

Jeff and I woke at 4 am to begin our climb to watch the sunrise over the ruins.

It was actually very cloudy and foggy and could barely find out way around. Also eight buses passed us and beat us to the entrance. (not fair!)

The fog started to lift and what a sight!

I did not know I was even standing so close to the llamas till the clouds lifted.

Brother Bill, feeling much better after a long night of being sick -- he
wasn´t going to let that stop him.

The mountain to the right is Waynapicchu -- only 400 allowed per day and I got number 360.
A tough climb and again seriously needed climbing ropes but worth the view. Did get a bit of vertigo on top. Jeff had to block the steep view down so I could make it off the top.

This is the view from the top.

Working our way back towards Cuzco we made a stop in
Ollantaytambo to hike to more ruins and a really cool town to
explore.

Our last stop was at Chinchero, then over a mountain pass and through a hail storm back to Cuzco.

Market at Pisac and Hike to Inca Citadel

2008-10-19T16:11:00.000-07:00

We met my brother Bill at the airport early on Saturday and have been going non-stop. It has been great to have him here and as a traveling partner for a while. Plus he brought us some goodies from the states -- snacks and much needed resupply of sunscreen.

The sun here is intense. The combination of elevation and getting closer to the equator has made your skin feel like it is baking -- even with sunscreen.

We caught a bus from Cuzco to the Sunday market at Pisac. The market was buzzing with fresh fruits and veggies, children playing, and women weaving.

We heading past the church to hike to the Inca Citadel. After a two hours, climbing in elevation, we arrived at spectacular ruins (ceremonial center, temples and tombs) sweeping terraces and an amazing view of the Pisca Valley.

My legs are throbbing a bit but well worth the climb. Tomorrow we are heading to Machu Picchu.

Some Much Needed Rest

2008-10-12T15:51:00.000-07:00

Copacabana was a much needed break. We arrived in town dusty and with our backs a bit sore from the rough ride only to find the perfect place to unwind and relax by the highest (technically a disputed fact) lake in the world -- Lake Titicaca.

Copacabana was apparently the only touristy town in Bolivia really but we enjoyed the luxuries -- a hotel with hot showers and cable TV for only 5 bucks! Also, trendy restaurants that served the closest thing to tacos we´ve seen so far (which we had every night).

We took a boat out to Island of the Sun where we walked through small villages and viewed the Inca´s layered terraces still used for farming. We usually hiked or walked everyday but we also slept in and had long breakfasts reading and enjoying coffee.

Traveling is rougher than it seems. It takes a lot out of you to always be on guard and take in all the sights and smells whether you want to or not. We saw two different horrible auto accidents in one day with five fatalities. The pollution and smell of urnine on the streets at times can choke you.

We needed a break and after spending a week at Lake Titicaca we were ready to get moving again.

Caught a bus and after an easy border crossing into Peru arrived in Puno. Another bus from there took us into Peru´s second largest city, Arequipa. A huge city with giants looming in the distance: El Misti, a volcano about 18,500 ft. tall and Chachani and Pichu Pichu, two volcanoes each about 18,000 - 19,000 feet tall towering over the city square.

Then on to the coast to Mollendo, which though not an attractive city was a good place to use as a base to explore Santuario Nacional Lagunas de Mejia, one of the largest perserved lakes along the South American coast. The lakes were filled with various migratory and coastal birds. The hike takes you between the coast and the lagoons to view the birds. We walked back on the coast and watched fishermen collect mussels with their nets.

Back on the road tomorow. Traveling can be tiring but no rest for now. There is too much to see and our time is going by quickly in South America. Only a month left!

Across the Salt Flats, Bolivia

2008-10-03T15:42:00.000-07:00

This was a chance of a lifetime and after much research, conversations with other travelers, and knowing that where we were going was a safe area, Jeff and I decided we would to traverse the salt flats in Bolivia.

We booked a guide in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, and went with Expediciones Estrella Del Sur. Picking a guide is the most important part of the trip. So much relies on their expertise. For example, the temperatures dipped the first night to -10 and the radiator froze, but our guide exactly what to do. Mario and his wife made a make-shift torch and he revved the engine while she waved the torch in front of the radiator. The toyota 4X4 LandCruiser is almost indestructible but out here the terrain is so rough you still have to expect breakdowns. A good guide will know what to do.

We woke early, left Chile for the last time and arrived at the border to Bolivia. We met our guides and they gassed up the SUV (they carried petrol on the roof of the car). We had a quick breakfast in the cold then began climbing in elevation with our travel mates, Megan and Ben from Australia. Rough roads took us over 15,000 feet, driving along the desert beside lagoons filled with flamingos, bubbling geysers, scenes that seemingly inspired Dali, Volcan Puntana (rising over 18,000 feet), eerie tombs from pre-Inca times in San Juan (perfectly preserved by the desert), a hotel made completely out of salt, communities planting quinoa in the barren sand and sunrise on the Salt Flats.

Sand was in everything I owned but it was hard to concentrate on that minor discomfort as the high elevation left my heart pounding. It was really one of those experiences that make you feel like you are outside of yourself. You just can´t believe that this place exsists. Then you take off your shoes and a pile of sand makes a small hill. It did happen.

Cachi, Argentina

2008-09-24T16:42:00.000-07:00

We took a bus from Salta to the dusty town of Cachi, dwarfed by 19,000-foot mountains which held patches of snow and small glaciers.

Cachi is so small it is easy for us to observe town life -- kids walking to school, goat skins drying in the sun, a woman walking to visit the cemetery on the bluff, and a 17th century church in the center of town.

The Digital Camera

2008-09-19T15:40:00.000-07:00

It is amazing how the digital camera has changed everything. Cameras are so advanced now that even a point-and-shoot can make you feel like a National Geographic photographer. It is true. Immediately you can see you shots. On our last trip we lugged around film (yes...digital cameras were around then but so were cell phones and we are usually suspicious of new and modern technology). We literally carried all the film we needed for a year. It did save us though -- one time we got searched by Croatian immigration officers who were sure that with Jeff´s long hair we would have something hidden in our huge bags. Going through each canister, though, the guard finally got annoyed with us and let us go on our way. But we had to wait a year to see if the photo we took of the monkey in the temple in Nepal came out or if it was blurry. No way of knowing but now you can point, shoot, delete and even email.

Most recently, Jeff and I were strolling along an empty beach -- Barra de Lagoa, in Brazil, when we literally saw a whale jump out of the water just yards from the shore. We were amazed to see such a sight -- we watched for two hours as it jumped, fed and rolled around spouting.

While hiking along a trail overlooking Foz de Iguacu we ran into a huge iquana streched out, sunning, and later a coati (like a raccoon crossed with a possum) that thought my camera bag had food and was dissappointed to find out otherwise.

In each of these situations I took dozens and dozens of photos, knowing that my memory card would hold hundreds and that any which did not turn out could simply be deleted. Such a luxury means you can literally snap away until you get what you want. You know right away if you got the shot.

The digital camera is addictive. Watch out National Geographic!

Torres, Brazil

2008-09-13T14:30:00.001-07:00

Steep cliffs, watching fishermen and long walks overlooking the raging coast -- we are enjoying this seaside town -- and we have it all to ourselves.

Piriapolis and Puna del Este, Uruguay

2008-09-11T14:28:00.000-07:00

Colonia, Uruguay

2008-09-08T14:23:00.000-07:00

Uruguay

2008-09-08T13:59:00.000-07:00

We took a ferry from Tigre, Argentina to Carmelo, Uruguay and the change of pace was immediate. The simple life can be found here -- horses, dogs and chickens wandering the cobblestone streets. The town is laid-back and traveling here is carefree.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

2008-09-01T15:27:00.000-07:00

Still a Patterson

2008-09-01T14:37:00.000-07:00

Each time I travel, I buy and lug around a journal with a renewed dedication to keep it updated but I am still a Patterson and despite my sincere desire to change, I still get lost in the experience and never find the time to fill the pages. Pattersons are known for our amazing ability to procrastinate. For example, not starting a term paper until the night before and realizing then (at 2 a.m.) that the printer is out of ink -- you get the idea. I am behind in my journal and behind in updating my blog.

It is especially hard because I am married to a professional writer. Jeff can remember the dates, places and describe them more profoundly and poetically than I ever could. I prefer photos over writing but the blog-thing is new to me and will try to keep up.

Rather than explain in detail -- the wine in Mendoza, our day trip to Uspallata (where our bus broke down, then we got on another bus which got a flat tire and then broke down again), skiing at Penitentes with one lift open but 2 feet of fresh powder and an avalanche within the resort, the border crossing into Chile lined with trucks on both sides for miles, the wonderful visit with the Hatcher family again (they are the greatest people!), last day of skiing at Portillo with telemarktips.com friends, mailing our gear home, census in Cordoba, which shut the town down, and most recently in Buenos Aires -- the art, architecture, Cementerio de la Recoleta, Mercado de Frutos -- I will just let you know about a few observations in general I have had since traveling in South America:

Wine is cheaper than Coke in most restaurants.

When you try to cross the street and it is clear except for a car in the distance -- that car will speed up and try to run you over.

While traveling on the road there is a whole vehicle-light flashing system and even after several weeks on buses I have yet to break the code.

Questions are answered only when specificially asked -- For example:

¨What time does the bus leave tomorrow?¨

Answer ¨5 am ¨

¨Is there one later than that?¨

Answer ¨There is one at 10 pm¨

¨Anything else in the morning?¨

Answer ¨10 am¨

¨Ok. I would like 2 tickets for 10 am¨

Answer ¨That bus has been sold out for a week¨

Items will be randomly sold while on a bus, train or while eating at a restaurant. Things like a frying pan, half of an avocado, one shoe string or a TV antenna.

They have jobs for everyone. Parking attendants that will help you find a parking spot, parallel park (oh we need this in Waynesville!), wash your car while your are running your errand and help if your car will not start when you are ready to leave. Other jobs -- raking pebble walkways, person in the back of a truck shovels sand on icy roads, or triggering an avalache in the resort by having a staff member ski over it.

Then there are the entrepreneurs who make their bikes into travelling convience stores. You can get a darn good cortado or even a home-made empanadas almost anywhere at anytime.

There are street performers who will juggle flames in front of your car, hilarious mimes and even a full-on tango performance in heels on cobblestone streets.

Honestly, I have been enjoying this trip so much -- words can not fully describe this experience but I will still try.

Los Penitentes, Uspallata and Mendoza -- Argentina

2008-08-22T10:23:00.000-07:00

Lost in Translation

2008-08-22T09:45:00.000-07:00

Here is the thing. We are on a budget trip and that means when we ski all day we generally go to a market before hand and get some stuff to snack on -- things like cheese and crackers, nuts or an apple. It is too expensive to eat at the restaurants on the mountain.

It was a cold windy day on the hill and we thought we would splurge and get something warm and hardy. We look at the menu and we decide on what to get -- Completo Italiano. It was affordable and we thought it would be a baguette with hard salami or prosciutto with cheese. We realized our mistake when our order was delivered to us -- a hotdog!

The hotdog has avocado (green), mayo (white) and tomatoes (red) which represent the flag. Somewhere we got lost in the translation.

Caviahue

2008-08-16T14:40:00.000-07:00

3 Feet of New Snow at Catedral

2008-08-09T08:53:00.001-07:00

It would almost bury you, the amount of snow that fell. When we arrived in Bariloche it was snowing hard and did not let up the entire time we were there -- except for the day we skied. We had sunny skies. We waited so we could see the view, which was worth the wait.

We found a cool pocket of snow which no one seemed to know about. We skied it out until finally, others started to discover our spot.

We did not even stop to snack of the sandwiches we made earlier that morning. We skied through the day until my calves would not have it anymore.

The day was epic.

Thank You Gore-tex!

2008-08-05T11:05:00.000-07:00

We arrived at our new ski town -- San Carlos de Bariloche -- the bus station was 3 km from town. Too long of a walk for us with our gear and driving rain/snow with gust so hard I almost blow over. Try to gain my composure and head the bus stop. We wait for bus No. 20 to take us to the center of town.

While on the bus, many friendly locals help us find our stop and once again back out into the storm. Up hill several blocks on a slick sidewalk to our hosteria. We made it!

Everything is wet but my feet -- thank goodness for Gore-tex!

We dry off and upack then out and about to explore the city. Lunch was empandas and a bottle of wine (cost as much as water so why not!). Tomorrow we ski at Catedral.

Destination: Patagonia

2008-08-03T14:43:00.000-07:00

Volcan Villarricia

2008-07-29T17:42:00.000-07:00

Life is good in Pucon. We woke up to bright sunny skies and hit the road for some skiing on Volcan Villarrica.

2008-07-28T10:39:00.000-07:00

On the Road

2008-07-28T10:17:00.001-07:00

We have been on the road, heading south and stopping at small towns to ski. One problem -- most of the locals in the towns do not actually ski. Usually we ask around to find out information but using this method has sent us on some wild goose chases. We ended up looking for a bus at an electrical substation, markets -- searching from one end of town to the other. Many locals say.. there is no bus ... you just have to hitchhike.

Finally we made some headway in Rancagua and found the local spot where the bus departs. One problem -- something about the road, but we go for it. We end up near the top of the mountain only to be asked to get out and wait for our next ride which ended up being a Nissan Pathfinder. All of us and our gear were somehow supposed to fit into this car.

It was an adventure to say the least and skiing at Chappa Verde was kind of like skiing at Cataloochee. We had a good day though. They ski really late here so we are skiing while the sun is starting to set.

Then onto the next town -- Chillan, which was much more organized and easy to figure out. We skied at Termas de Chillan which was nothing short of spectacular. We skied with blue skies ( does not happen often ) with wonderful views of the Andes. At the top of the lift -- a smoldering volcano. Now this is the life!

Heading south again to a really hip town -- Pucon. Feels like a cross between Park City and Moab but still in a South American way. Rain today which we are hoping is snow on the hill. We will hit the slopes tomorrow.

2008-07-21T10:35:00.000-07:00

Skiing at Valle Nevado and La Parva - - Good Times!

2008-07-20T11:06:00.000-07:00

Jeff making some turns at La Parva.

The view from the mountains are amazing.

Chillin' in Chile

2008-07-16T14:09:00.000-07:00

We have arrived and it is every bit as beautiful as I imagined.

Left Houston at 10:30 am on Tuesday and arrived in Santiago Wednesday at 6:30 am to dark and foggy skies. Good news though -- all of our luggage made it too!

The fog soon burned off to a spectacular day. We took a short hike but still a bit tired from our long journey. Just resting up for our first day of skiing tomorrow.

The Art of Packing

2008-07-12T14:44:00.000-07:00

The process starts weeks before, thinking about what you might need and slowly buying and collecting items. Soon, the guest room was littered with items sprawled out so things could be seen easily with a quick scan -- fleece jacket, bathing suit, water bottle, meds, battery chargers and more.

Here's the challenge: all this

must fit into this:

My husband developed a list that is tattered now and has some lines crossing out items and some notes of what was discovered to be missing. That list has been developed with trips he took to Africa and Central America. It is his trusty list he breaks out now each trip to be sure he has what he needs.

Realistically, if you forget something it's not that big of a deal. Many items can be purchased along the way and often at a cheaper price that what we'd pay at home (especially where we usually travel) but the idea is to pack the perfect bag -- not too heavy but with everything you need. The comforts of home while traveling abroad. There is an art to packing.

Lost Cause

2008-06-27T17:36:00.000-07:00

Now I know why people don't generally move very much. All my stuff is stored in different places at my parents' house (the attic, the unfinished basement and random closets where there was room) and I can not find anything. It is somewhere...in a box.
My time here is counting down. Only a week before I am headed to Texas to visit with my hubby's family and then we fly out.
Lots of mixed emotions right now -- excited about our upcoming adventure and also tough leaving everything behind --saying good bye to friends, family, my home and my life as I've known it. Doubting my Spanish skills - two semesters at the community college which was fortunately not for a grade! Liz gave me some books to brush up on my skills but total immersion...I think it is the best way to learn. It will make it all worth while.

Goofballs in Paradise

2008-06-20T10:50:00.000-07:00

It has been so difficult to start. Where to begin...things happened so quickly but here is an update --we sold our house, stored our stuff and bought a plan ticket to take us around the world. We depart on July 15 for a year of traveling abroad.

Goofballs are heading to paradise!

Now we are just getting ready for our departure. Frequent trips to the Health Department to get all our vaccinations, purchasing clothing and items for our trip and packing in as much time as we can with family and friends.

Cooking out with fresh veggies at my cousin Catherine's farm, porch time with Liz catching up on life at her house in Columbia, one last performance on guitar hero with Blair and Lauren, dining al fresco with Coach Kile and Janelle (which are also going to be taking care of Couzy while we are away!), pool side with Emilie, walking around Stone Mountain at night when it is only 100 degrees with Kristen, steak heaven with head chef Chris and Michelle (thanks for the best bottle of wine), tennis in the mornings with Dad, cruising in the boat to the dam (and getting lost) at Lake Hartwell with Meri and Bill, and babysitting my nieces while my sister and her hubby take one last trip while they have a free sitter!

2008-04-22T16:44:00.000-07:00

Some exciting news to reveal soon!